Big Watches Vs Small Watches : Does the size really matters
From Steve McQueen's classic Rolex to Sylvester Stallone's oversized Panerai, the watch world has never agreed on the perfect size. But does bigger really mean better?
Reading time: 6 minutes | Watch Culture & Lifestyle
There was a time when a 36mm wristwatch was considered perfectly normal for a man. Then came the oversized watch revolution, when 44mm, 47mm, and even 50mm cases became fashionable.
Suddenly, a watch wasn't just something you wore to tell the time. It was something people could notice from across the room.
Today, the debate continues.
Some collectors insist that a 36mm watch offers timeless elegance. Others argue that a substantial 45mm pilot watch has a presence that smaller timepieces simply cannot match.
And then there are those who believe that the perfect watch size has nothing to do with the number printed on the specification sheet.
So, who is right?
To understand the debate, we need to look at how watches became bigger, why smaller watches have returned to the conversation, and what some of the world's most recognizable watch enthusiasts have to say about the subject.
1. When 36mm Was Considered a Perfectly Normal Watch
If you look at vintage wristwatches from the 1950s and 1960s, you may be surprised by how small they appear compared with many modern sports watches.
Cases measuring 34mm to 36mm were common, and a 38mm wristwatch could be considered relatively large.
A fascinating example is the Rolex Submariner.
When Rolex introduced the Submariner reference 5512 in 1959, it featured a 40mm case, replacing earlier references that measured approximately 38mm.
The 5512 also became associated with one of Hollywood's most recognizable style icons: Steve McQueen.
McQueen's watch demonstrated something that enthusiasts still appreciate today: a wristwatch doesn't have to be enormous to have a strong visual identity.
A relatively modest case, a distinctive dial, and balanced proportions can create a design that remains recognizable for generations.
Perhaps the lesson from vintage watches is that size and presence are not necessarily the same thing.
A carefully designed 36mm watch can attract just as much attention as a considerably larger model.
The difference is how it achieves that attention.
2. How Hollywood Helped Make Big Watches Cool
During the 1990s and 2000s, oversized watches became increasingly prominent.
Large sports watches, military-inspired designs, and substantial cases gained popularity among collectors who appreciated their distinctive appearance.
One brand closely associated with this development was Panerai.
Originally known for its military diving-watch heritage, Panerai attracted attention from Hollywood personalities, particularly Sylvester Stallone.
Stallone's association with the brand helped introduce its distinctive oversized designs to a wider audience.
For some enthusiasts, a large watch offered more than additional dial space. It was an expression of personal style.
Chris Pratt explains why he prefers larger watches
Actor Chris Pratt, known for Guardians of the Galaxy and Jurassic World, discussed his preference for Panerai in an interview with GQ.
Pratt explained that he has relatively large hands and wrists, and that many watches felt too small when he tried them on.
When he finally put on a Panerai, his reaction was simple:
"Oh, this feels nice." — Chris Pratt
He appreciated the watch's proportions, substantial weight, and understated appearance.
His experience illustrates an important point.
For someone with a larger wrist, a 44mm or 47mm watch may feel completely natural. A 36mm model, by comparison, might not provide the visual balance or wearing experience that person prefers.
But does that mean everyone with a large wrist should wear a large watch?
Not necessarily.
And that brings us to the other side of the debate.
3. The Return of Smaller Watches: Is 36mm Cool Again?
For years, many watch enthusiasts associated large cases with modern sports watches and smaller cases with vintage or traditional dress watches.
But watch preferences are not fixed.
Smaller case sizes have attracted renewed interest, with manufacturers offering compact alternatives to established models.
In 2021, for example, Rolex returned the Explorer to a 36mm case after previously offering it in 39mm. Other manufacturers also introduced smaller versions of existing designs.
This development raises an interesting question.
Are collectors rediscovering smaller watches because of changing fashion, or are they simply becoming more comfortable wearing whatever they like?
Perhaps it is a combination of both.
John Mulaney: When a watch is simply too big
Comedian and actor John Mulaney discussed his growing interest in watch collecting in a 2025 interview with GQ.
He recalled wearing a large Cartier Santos on television and enjoying the watch's design, but finding the proportions unsuitable for his own wrist.
As he explained:
"It's a beautiful watch. It was just a little big for my wrist." — John Mulaney
Mulaney also mentioned owning a smaller Santos and regularly wearing watches from several different manufacturers.
His experience highlights something collectors sometimes overlook.
You can appreciate a watch without wanting to wear it.
A large chronograph might look incredible in a photograph, yet feel uncomfortable after several hours on your wrist.
Likewise, a small vintage watch might look insignificant in a display case but feel perfectly balanced once you put it on.
The only way to know is to try it.
4. What Do Watchmakers Think About the Perfect Size?
Watch enthusiasts often approach sizing from a fashion perspective.
Watchmakers, however, must also consider the relationship between the case, movement, dial, hands, and overall construction.
A larger case provides additional room for design elements, but making a watch bigger doesn't automatically improve its appearance or functionality.
Similarly, reducing the case diameter doesn't necessarily make a watch more elegant.
The relationship between the components matters.
Roger W. Smith: The importance of proportions
British independent watchmaker Roger W. Smith discussed the dimensions of his watches in an interview published on the TimeZone watchmaking forum.
Explaining his preference for a 38mm case, Smith said:
"38mm fits everyone, it is neither too large, nor too small." — Roger W. Smith
Smith's comments reflected his philosophy of designing a case that complements the movement inside it.
He also emphasized the importance of creating watches that would remain visually appealing long after current fashion trends had passed.
Of course, whether 38mm truly fits everyone is open to debate.
Someone who enjoys substantial military-inspired timepieces might consider it too small, while a vintage-watch enthusiast could find it ideal.
But Smith's underlying point is worth considering.
A good watch should have proportions that make sense for its design, rather than simply following the fashion of the moment.
5. Does Your Wrist Size Determine Your Watch Size?
This is probably the most common question people ask when buying a watch.
If you have a small wrist, should you avoid large watches?
If you have a large wrist, should you avoid small watches?
The short answer is no.
Wrist size is an important consideration, but it shouldn't be the only factor.
A 40mm watch with a broad dial, long lugs, and a substantial bracelet may appear larger than a 42mm watch with a compact case and narrow bezel.
Likewise, a 45mm pilot watch with short, curved lugs may sit more comfortably on your wrist than its diameter initially suggests.
Understanding the three measurements that matter
Case diameter: The width of the watch case, usually measured across the case without including the crown.
Lug-to-lug distance: The distance from the end of the upper lugs to the end of the lower lugs. This helps determine how far the watch extends across your wrist.
Case thickness: The height of the watch, which can affect comfort and how easily it fits beneath a shirt cuff.
Watch publication Hodinkee has emphasized that case diameter alone doesn't tell the whole story, noting that lug-to-lug measurements can be a particularly useful indicator of how much space a watch occupies on the wrist.
When considering a new watch, look beyond its diameter.
A beautifully proportioned 43mm watch can sometimes feel more comfortable than a poorly proportioned 39mm model.
The numbers are useful, but the experience of wearing the watch matters more.
6. Big Watches Have Something Small Watches Don't
There is a reason oversized watches continue to attract enthusiasts.
A large dial offers designers additional space to work with.
Bold Arabic numerals, oversized luminous hands, multiple subdials, and distinctive dial textures can create a striking appearance.
This is particularly relevant to aviation-inspired watches.
Traditional pilot-watch designs emphasized legibility, with large numerals, clearly differentiated hands, and strong contrast between the dial and its markings.
In a modern aviation-inspired design, these elements also contribute to the watch's visual identity.
A 46mm pilot watch with a large crown and prominent numerals creates a completely different impression from a minimalist 36mm dress watch.
Neither design needs to imitate the other.
One can be bold, substantial, and instantly recognizable.
The other can be understated, elegant, and comfortable beneath a shirt cuff.
It is perfectly reasonable to appreciate both.
But bigger isn't always more comfortable
A large watch can also introduce practical challenges.
Additional weight may become noticeable during extended wear. A thick case might catch on clothing, while long lugs can make a watch feel awkward if they extend beyond the wrist.
This is why enthusiasts should consider the entire case design rather than focusing exclusively on diameter.
A well-designed oversized watch should feel intentional, not simply enlarged.
7. Can a Small Watch Have a Big Personality?
Absolutely.
Consider the Cartier Tank, a design that demonstrates how distinctive proportions can create a recognizable identity without relying on an oversized case.
Its rectangular shape, Roman numerals, and characteristic dial layout make it immediately recognizable to many watch enthusiasts.
Or consider the classic 36mm Rolex Datejust, a model whose design has remained closely associated with traditional everyday elegance.
Neither watch needs an enormous case to establish its identity.
In fact, increasing their dimensions too dramatically could change the character that makes the original designs appealing.
A collector's perspective
Watch enthusiast and Fratello founder Robert-Jan Broer discussed this issue in an article titled It's About The Watch, Not The Wrist.
Broer argued that different designs have different ideal proportions.
He explained that he preferred the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 39mm, while acknowledging that other collectors might prefer the larger 41mm version.
He also pointed out that certain watches are intentionally designed to be large and may lose their original character when significantly reduced in size.
That is an interesting way to approach the subject.
Rather than asking whether 36mm or 46mm is universally better, perhaps we should ask:
What size makes this particular watch look and feel the way it was intended to?
8. Are Watch Sizes Becoming Smaller Again?
The watch industry has experienced several changes in sizing preferences.
During the 2000s and 2010s, oversized sports watches became increasingly prominent, with many manufacturers introducing models measuring 44mm and larger.
More recently, smaller case sizes have received renewed attention from watch enthusiasts and fashion publications.
In July 2026, GQ published a feature dedicated to smaller watches, highlighting compact designs and the appeal of understated proportions.
But it would be premature to declare the oversized watch obsolete.
Large dive watches, chronographs, and aviation-inspired models continue to offer a design language that cannot always be reproduced successfully in a smaller case.
Fashion also tends to move in cycles.
What looks oversized today may appear perfectly normal to another generation of collectors.
And what once seemed small may eventually become fashionable again.
A changing perspective from a longtime watch enthusiast
Television personality and watch collector Raúl de Molina discussed how his preferences had evolved in a 2022 interview with Hodinkee.
Having previously enjoyed particularly large watches, he explained that he had become more comfortable wearing models measuring approximately 40mm to 42mm.
He admitted:
"Before, I used to like the big watches a lot." — Raúl de Molina
His experience demonstrates that watch preferences can change over time.
A collector might begin with oversized sports watches, discover smaller vintage pieces, and eventually develop an appreciation for both.
There is no reason why a watch collection should be restricted to a single diameter.
9. So, What Is the Perfect Watch Size?
After looking at vintage watches, Hollywood personalities, independent watchmakers, and modern collectors, we are left with an interesting conclusion.
There is no single watch size that works for everyone.
A 36mm watch may offer exactly the understated elegance one collector wants.
A 40mm sports watch may provide another person with the balance they prefer for everyday use.
And a substantial 47mm pilot watch may be the perfect choice for someone who appreciates a bold design and a strong wrist presence.
The important thing is understanding what you enjoy wearing.
Before buying your next watch, ask yourself a few simple questions.
Does it feel comfortable on my wrist? Do I like the proportions? Does the dial look balanced? Can I imagine wearing it regularly? And, perhaps most importantly, would I still enjoy this watch if its size were no longer fashionable?
A watch is something personal.
Its value to the wearer isn't determined by whether it follows the latest trend.
Sometimes the smallest watch in the room attracts the most attention. And sometimes a big watch is exactly what makes an outfit complete.
The real question isn't whether big watches or small watches are better.
It's whether the watch on your wrist feels right to you.
Now It's Your Turn: Are You Team Big or Team Small?
Every watch collector has a preference, and we'd love to hear yours.
Are you a fan of classic 36mm watches, comfortable 40mm everyday models, or oversized 45mm–50mm timepieces?
Perhaps your collection includes all three.
Tell us your favorite watch size and the model you wear most often.
Because when it comes to watches, sometimes the most interesting conversations begin with a simple question:
"Isn't that watch a little too big for your wrist?"
And the answer might just be:
"Not for me."
Published by Chotovelli & Figli | Watch Culture & Lifestyle
Exploring the history, design, craftsmanship, and personal stories behind the watches we wear.
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